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***Latest News***
October 15th, 2009 -
The End of a Great Season
2009 shaped up to be the
best run Yakutat has seen for silvers since 2004. If you remember
back to that fall, we had fish literally EVERYWHERE.
Well, on a 5 year lifecycle, one would think we would have
expected the children of such a spectacular run to be thick and
heavy. They were.
With the economy as it
is, we also had the river entirely to ourselves for most of the
season. No one in the Forest Service cabin for half of
September, no fly-outs, no trained bears... just lots
of fish and no people. Our "challenge" with IRA (Italio
River Adventures) has been that we haven't been able to get new groups
into our schedule. We've been seeing the same groups back year
after year. In 2009, after 8 straight seasons for most of
them, we had a pretty high percentage of them all decide to take
one year off all at once. OOPS! That left us with half the
season wide open to get a few new groups into prime weeks. If you
click on the calendar button above, you'll see that the silver
season is already nearly full. If you want a chance to slip into a
slot, you'll have to make that decision in a hurry. As
of today, we can take a group the first week of September, a
group of 4 or less the first week of October and one more group the
third slot in October. That's it.
2010 will officially be
IRA's 10th anniversary of having the camp. We did guide day
fishermen the two seasons before that, but couldn't have them
spend the night. Pat and I are looking forward to celebrating our
milestone first decade out there at the camp. Hopefully we'll have
the chance to share it with you. See you on the river.
-Bob
April 5th, 2009 -
Bookings and the Economy
Hello all,
It has been a year since I blogged here on the italio.com web site. Most of my babblings have
changed over to the fly shop web site and poor ol' italio.com has been a
little bit neglected. Well, over the next month, I'll
get lots of fresh photos up and get the photo albums up to date from the
last couple seasons.
Yes, the economy is
getting felt already here in Yakutat. There are always silver
linings though, for those who are willing to watch for them.
One opportunity for those fishermen out there is that Italio River
Adventures does have a couple openings in the coming season that we
would normally not have. As anyone knows who has wanted to book
with us in most years, we very rarely have new slots open
up. We do have some prime time in September, 2009 sitting
available right now, so give me a call at the local Yakutat number
at the top of the page, or e-mail if you are interested.
As for
"news"... Pat is really making a success of his fresh
market sockeye business Alsek Fish. If you are looking for super
exceptional quality salmon during the summer, Pat can ship it out
to you overnight. Send him an e-mail if you are interested,
or call him via the 866 number listed at the top of the page.
Teen and I have been busy
renovating the old WWII hangar at the Yakutat airport and we opened the
fly shop a year ago April. We spend most of our time out there in
that huge derelict building, but the time on the Italio is my
saving grace in the fall to run IRA with Pat. Still busy
HomeSchooling the kids. Tanis is turning 10 this month and Eden
just hit 6 last month. More later as time permits...
-Bob
February 23rd, 2008 - The
new year has begun
With the new year upon
us, there will unfortunately be some changes to this page.
Pat asked me not to use this Latest News page for personal
ramblings, as I have been for the last two seasons. He is my
business partner in Italio River Adventures, so alas that is the
explanation for the abrupt end to my blogging in early October.
So, from now on, I will move my blog and river reports to my
other web page at www.situk.net.
I hope to feature useful river reports for all of Yakutat's rivers and
streams, along with other info and my usual personal tirades about
messy fishermen and bears. With the separate web site, I
will be able to do as I wish unimpeded. Thank you to all who have
tuned into this page and to those who I have met on the river because of
the semi-useful information found here. If you have any questions
at all, please don't hesitate to ask me and add the www.situk.net
address to your favorites. Remember, the blog will be at .NET,
not .COM. The www.situk.com
address is the e-storefront for the Situk River Fly Shop.
Well, you are obviously welcome to visit there too... The
shop will be open as of April 1st, 2008!
Sincerely,
Bob Miller
October
3rd, 2007 - A New Guide in Training
Today,
Teen left her kitchen duties behind and came out to guide.
OK, so guiding to me means spending the evening throwing a
line. While we worked on her cast, she accidentally hooked
up with a huge (although VERY red) buck. This is officially Teen's
second fish of her life... ever... period. So,
she is now officially a "licensed fly fishing guide",
but she is still afraid to touch a fish. So I held it up for the
picture, also showing her how to properly hold a salmon for the
camera. "My, what big fingers you have..."
It was a big fish even without the distorted perspective.
After a week of being free
of the beasts, the bears are back. The medium sized one with
the light collar is the biggest challenge. He ran off when I
confronted him, but came back the next day and snarled at one of
the guys and didn't run off for him. Later that evening, he
sure ran off in a hurry with the cracker shells exploding behind
him. In addition to the 4 problem bears, we also have a sow
with two cubs hanging around. They haven't been trained in the
"wrong" way, so they haven't been a problem in the
least. Let's hope they don't get together with any of the others
and pick up any bad habits. The season is almost over, so
with a little luck, we'll get through this one and hope for a
little more common sense next season from ALL our visitors.
And after hearing about it
for a decade, I saw the green flash tonight. What an amazing
sunset it was from the top of the dunes. Then it turned green for
about 5 seconds before disappearing below the horizon. My camera
battery was dead, so I offer no proof. A lifetime of sunsets
out here and this is the first time I have seen it.
September 27th, 2007 -
A Change in the Air
After my extremely whiny
entry last time, it has been a wonderful pleasure to meet and fish
with the guys who have flown out the past two days. Not only have
the bears had nothing to find along the banks, everyone has been
showing proper river etiquette in spite of the fact that there are still
a lot of people out here and we have been compressed into a small area
by the 12+ foot tides. It is amazing how much room there is for
people without crowding anyone out. When asked if someone can
share a hole, one can always make room and enjoy the
experience. Unlike the deliberate disregard for anyone's personal
space that so many this season have shown. Food for thought,
you can get a lot more from people out here if you are polite and
respectful. Big surprise! As an added bonus for all of
us, there has been no garbage left these past couple days
either. After filling my pockets and Honda trailer, NOTHING
new appeared on the heavily used gravel bars.
Big thank you's to all the
people who do have a clue this year. I know you were just as
frustrated as I have been, so hopefully next season will be better
for all of us. And the bears... well, the river has
been clean, so they haven't bothered to come out there during the
day. One did walk through the IRA camp right after dinner
tonight, but the dogs and Pat sent him running in a hurry back
down the beach. A storm is coming tonight, hitting the Tsiu
straight on as usual. The Tsiu had the weakest and shortest silver
run on record. Looks like our run will be second worst (after last
year). We have easily exceeded Fish and Game's escapement goals
for the Middle and New Italio Rivers, but it looks like the Old
Italio may not even come close. It has been a VERY tough year for
that stream, which was hit much harder than last year.
Something to keep an eye on for the future...
September 26th, 2007 -
Sportylocks and the Three Bears
Usually we can keep up with
the bear situation and prevent any from getting the "wrong"
training. With the massive number of day fishermen this
season, we have tried to avoid spending any time on the Middle
Italio in an effort to have a little more peace and quiet. The
downside of that is that we haven't been able to correct any errant
"bearhavior". So, as of yesterday we had three
bears that were up to no good. Today, a HUGE silver tipped
bear was added to the mix on the river. People have not only been
leaving the carcasses and guts all along the bank instead of getting it
back into the river, they have left several dozen perfect and
whole silvers on the shoreline. Apparently, as soon as a
bear appeared (minding his own business I might add...), whole
groups of macho guys ran screaming while leaving their entire day's
catch behind.
If you were a bear and you
saw a dozen bright salmon on the bank next to where these oddly coated
critters are running away from, it wouldn't take you very long to
figure out the equation: people+stupidity=food. Bears have a
natural fear of man and well they should. A group of 6 guys is not
something a bear is about to tangle with, unless a group of 6 guys
teach the bear that 1) they are not to be feared and 2) they have lots
of food. So... as of yesterday, a bear steps out of
the bushes and walks along not really thinking about all these humans
standing around. One guy shouts at it, waving his arms and
walking toward it. The bear tears off in terror... You have
a group of guys who do that and no bear will hang around.
However, if you have a group of guys who abandon their fish and
run away in terror, you teach the bear something VERY different
from that nature has told him about human interaction.
For those of you who know
me, you probably know that we have not had a bear problem since I
started guiding here. We have made a concerted effort to reeducate
the sport fishermen that descend upon my home every fall. The mess
over the past several years has been greatly improved, however the
huge volume of fly-outs these past two weeks has really taken our area a
giant leap backwards. We might as well be on the Situk.
We basically have one more
week of fly-outs for the season. The damage has already been
done, so if you come out, expect to have some hairy
visitors. Please attempt to not make the situation worse by
continuing to perpetuate the problem. Don't leave your fish high
up on the bank. If you clean them, get the waste into the
deepest part of the river. Don't bring anything unnecessary
out, so it is easier for you to keep your crap close and under
your protection. Don't leave your food lying around, wear
your day pack. Stay as a group and act as a group. Pay
attention, so you can run the bear off as a group long before he
gets so close that you wet yourself and run off.
As of today, the bears
are no longer running off in terror when one guy acts like there are
balls in his shorts. A group can still be an effective
defense, but a couple more days of this and we'll have enough
drama to base a movie on. Please use your brain for more than a
doorstop.
I love sharing my home with
people who "get it". The rest of you are frustrating to
say the least and you have worked hard to put the safety and wellbeing
of other people at risk. I hate typing messages like this,
but I hate shooting bears that have been sentenced to death by the
negligence of others far more. Let's hope we can make it through
2007 without incident and lets pray that in 2008, we'll have
visitors with more common sense.
September 25th, 2007 -
The Run Isn't Late After All
Well, it has been a
little while since my last update and so... to appease Jim,
here is a fresh one.
Fishing continues to be
slow. Not quite as poor as last season, but this is far from
"normal" for the Italio. But...
comparatively, I guess we can't complain too much. From the
sounds of it, we have a lot more fish than the Situk and judging
by the volume of fly out day fishermen, we may be the only game in
town. We broke a new record for crowds last week with over 70
people standing within sight of each other at the mouth. I have no
idea how many more were upstream at the Spruce and Alder holes.
We were hit by yet another
storm yesterday. With the saturated ground, it didn't take
much to make the river flooded - too flooded for me to drive
across. That puts us over 25 inches of rain for the month of
September by the official Yakutat Weather Service count. With our
dry one inch month of August, it feels good to have the moisture
again. The silvers are definitely making it up beyond the reach of
the fishermen and into the spawning redds in this high water. All
the better for their chances of having a good recovery for 5 years from
now.
The bad news of course is
that Tanis and Eden were shipped off to Seattle to spend the next few
weeks with my mom and family. We had hoped Teen's parents would
make it up here to baby sit while Teen guided with me, but Ken's
recovery from his shattered arms isn't going as well as we had
hoped. So... Tanis won't be out to harass all the fishermen
in the yard, lecturing them on why they need to throw away their
spin rods and get fly rods... Nothing like a recently converted
fly fishermen to put on the snob act... He gets away with it as an
8 year old though. Eden flew out this weekend having yet to catch
a silver herself. She has a sockeye under her belt this
year, but the silvers just haven't been pausing in front if the
cabin like they used to. She'll have to wait till she is 5 for her
first silver now.
September 17th, 2007 -
Tsiu Has Hit...
Yesterday, fishing was
downright awful. The report from the last commercial fishing
opener on the Tsiu was dismal to say the least. It looked as
though we were not having a late run, but instead we were having
no run at all anywhere. Well, the Tsiu opened at 9am and by
5pm, they had caught five DC-3 loads. Not a bad few
hours. I didn't go fishing today, since our clients left
early this morning and our next group arrives tomorrow.
But... the day fishermen report was that it started very
slow, then they did really well on the incoming tide. Very
good fish moving in at the mouth.
Still not the greatest run
in the world, but at least it is looking a little more
hopeful. I hate waffling back and forth from day to the
next, but the run at the moment seems to be waffling back and
forth from one3 day to the next too. It was a gorgeous sunny day
and the weather is expected to hold for a few more days. The river
is flowing very nicely right now, so the fish should be able to
stack up a bit. At least I have a little hope again...
September 15th, 2007 -
And now for some Bad News...
We have been hoping the run
was just late. Really really late. Well, word from the
Tsiu is that it isn't coming. The Tsiu commercial fishing season
was delayed waiting for the run to arrive. It didn't. It
opened on Monday to a dismal week. That makes for three straight
bad silver seasons and since silvers have a five year life span,
three out of five makes for some awful statistics. The
local fish and game biologist is blaming our recurring winter droughts
for the poor returns. The streams are drying up before the
juvenile salmon have a chance to flush out into the ocean.
Obviously something is wrong with the program.
On the Middle Italio,
we have the three holes down at the mouth that have been producing OK
this year and the usual three holes that remain upstream in the old
river bed. It has been four years since fish have held in the hole
out in front of my cabin. The hole filled in for a while,
but this year there is really a nice deep channel. The few fish we
are seeing just aren't pausing there before they head up river.
We were hit by another good
storm yesterday and this morning, but it blew itself out before
noon. We did not get anywhere near the rain they did in
town, so the river didn't blow out. It came up a little
bit, but is still very fishable. Occasional showers
tonight, so that will keep the river dropping back down by
tomorrow.
Boy, this sure is an
inspiring entry... I'll check back in in a couple days and keep
you posted. Teen and I did have a nice anniversary tonight.
September 12th, 2007 -
Dry Skies, Dry Rivers Again.
Two straight days of dry
weather have lowered the water level in a hurry. The Middle Italio
today is back down to where it should be for really good fishing.
Fishing is just "OK" though. Not a whole lot of fish
yet, so either the run is REALLY, REALLY late, or we
are looking at bad return #3. Hopefully it is just late. The
Tsiu finally opened for commercial fishing this week, so if that
is any indication, all the rivers are way out of whack.
Quite a few day fishermen today, more than two dozen on the
Middle. We spent the day down at the Old. More water still
lingering there on the flats, but the fish are improving down
there a bit. The run is gradually ratcheting up, but does
not seem to be in any big hurry.
Both the New italio and Akwe
have been a raging torrent all week. They are still puking out
brown water into the ocean, while the other streams have cleared
back up. It will take a few more days for them to settle back
down, although they have had better and earlier returns so
far. The commercial fishermen on the Akwe didn't bother to set
their nets this week because of the high water and all the moss and
debris flushing out. The Akwe is open for gill-nets Sunday noon
through Tuesday noon, so most of next week will be wide open for
sport fishing.
In other words, things
are improving, but not with great strides. It just started
raining again a few minutes ago. This system isn't supposed to
dump much water on us, so hopefully the rivers will stay where
they are and the fish will start to stack up a little. The massive
flood we had two days ago pushed all those silvers that were laying at
the mouth way upstream into the tributary creeks. Now with the
water at a good level, they should start to fill the holes
in, providing the river doesn't reflood. Keep your fingers
crossed.
September 10th, 2007 -
The Storm Knocked Out my Internet - AGAIN!
I made a lengthy and VERY
detailed update last night on all the rivers. As I uploaded the
changes to the server, the wind knocked out my internet connection
and it was lost. AARRGH! So, here is a short update as
of today, skipping most of what I typed, since it doesn't
matter at this point...
So, we had only about
1 inch of rain for the month of August and the rivers were deathly
dry. We had a two day storm that really dumped a lot of water on
us. The New Italio and Akwe Rivers flooded pretty good, but
the Middle was still way below a normal summer level. Two days of
mostly cloudy skies and light showers, followed by two days of
heavy rain again. Yesterday, we finally hit ground
saturation and today, the rivers have gone from record lows to
what would look like a seasonal high flood. It is still
raining, so I'd expect things to stay flooded till we get a couple
totally dry days in a row. Just heard from town that the Situk
also went from a record low level to a record flood in a matter of the
same 4-5 days. We needed the rain, but... Cancel that
prayer request please...
As of two days ago,
the low water combined with the small 7 foot tides was preventing many
silvers from making it upstream to the Spruce and Alder Holes. We
really had great fishing at the Middle mouth for several days, as
the fish were nosing their way into the river, but unable to get
beyond the first couple bends. All that has changed
obviously. Way too much water to fish the lower river and darned
close to that in the upper holes. Upstream is the better bet right
now though.
We last fished the Old
Italio three days ago. It was low, but not as low as the
Middle. That run was still not in, with only about 5 pockets
of 10-20 fish scattered around. After the rains, there is
basically water spread across the entire flats with no visible river at
all. Nothing but water from the dunes to the treeline - a couple
miles wide!
The New Italio is very flood
sensitive, just like a mini-Situk. We had really good
fishing there a week ago when the water was low, but it is an
opaque raging torrent right now. The Akwe will look very wide and
deep, with water from bank to bank, instead of the usual
meandering stream that curves from one side of the wide cutbank to the
other. If you are looking for a good fishing option while the
Situk is really flooded, it ain't out here at the moment.
Too bad, since we don't have much fishing pressure at all right
now. Just a group of three in the Forest Service cabin, the
Boyscout campers and our group of 5 at IRA.
Better upload this and go to
bed. As I realigned the dish tonight, it was still
raining, but the stars were out. Let's hope we get a little
break.
September
6th, 2007 - What a Difference a Day Makes
The skies parted and the
river dropped. A few fish continue to trickle in, but not in
great numbers yet. Building is the best way to describe the run at
this point. We had a good day, but not great.
But... after two days of torrential rains and hard winds,
the sun breaks felt great. The no-see-um hatch didn't feel all
that great, but no complaints from me.
For those of you that don't
know, Teen's 70 year old dad fell off a 40 foot roof early in the
year and shattered his arms (and a few other things). It has been
a long recovery process, but things were looking up. He and
Teen's mum were planning to come up to watch the kids in October while
Teen guided with me. Unfortunately, his situation turned for
the worse over the past couple weeks. An ongoing bone infection
flared up badly and it looks like he will need several more rounds of
surgeries throughout the next couple months and he will have to stay
close by the hospitals. Please keep Ken and Sue in your thoughts
and prayers. You may have met Sue (Teen's Aussie "mum")
last September when she came up help with Tanis and Eden while Teen was
learning the fly fishing guide ropes.
September 5th, 2007 - Stormy
Start to September...
I said I would update this
yesterday, but the massive storm that hit knocked out my internet
connection. It is still pretty hit and miss, so hopefully I
can get this saved in time. The only news I have about the
Leonard's Landing fire is that there were some minor injuries, but
nothing serious.
As for the fishing
report... we have finally had some rain and finally the silvers
have hit the river. But... all the rivers are now officially
blown out too. So, good news and bad news. We had a
really good morning on the New Italio, followed by a great evening
on the Middle. Lots of fish in both. By 9pm when I tried to
drive home from the camp, I had to turn around and go back for my
waders, since I couldn't drive across the Middle to get
home. WAY too deep. Such is life in a rain forest. One
day you are horribly drought stricken, then the next day you can't
get home through the floods. Of course if it stopped raining
tomorrow, it would all soak into the sand and look normal in a few
hours.
Be advised that there is a
trained bear on the New Italio. Unfortunately last week,
some fishermen were feeding him and he now expects a meal when he hears
bells and whistles. DON'T FEED THE BEARS! Clean your fish
and get the waste into the deep part, not up on the bank for the
critters to find. Feed the fish, but the bears.
OK, that was my soap box moment for tonight. This storm
should blow itself out soon enough and the influx of fresh fish is a
wonderful thing. Standing on the top of the dunes tonight,
it was amazing to see the huge waves on the ocean. Nature is a
powerful force and a wonderful thing to behold.
September 3rd, 2007 - Leonard's
Landing Restaurant is GONE!
This afternoon, the
Leonard's Landing Lodge restaurant building caught fire today. The building
is a total loss. I'll post more information as it becomes
available. The first photo was taken shortly after noon, the
second was around 5pm.

September 2nd, 2007 - Can
it be silver season already?!?!
Here we are, September
already. Why the sunny skies and dry weather? Here is the
short fishing report...
Yesterday, there were
wakes moving up the Old Italio as we drove by. Couldn't tell what
species, but have a hunch they were pinks, not
silvers. From all indications, we are having an extremely
late run of pinks and the silvers will be late as well. I have
been on a kayak trip to Hubbard Glacier for the past week, so
haven't had time to really see what is happening here. We arrived
last night to find a bunch of silver carcasses left ON THE RUNWAY in
front of the cabin, so the day fishermen were able to catch at
least 5 yesterday. The Middle Italio is extremely low, but
with 10.9 foot tides, there was a LOT of water pushing them far
upstream. Nothing holding in the lower river at all. Before
the kayak trip, there were waves of pinks going by the cabin and
settling into the Spruce and Alder Holes upstream. The little bit
of rain we had on Friday was not enough to drive big numbers of fish
into the streams.
While in town
yesterday, the report from the Tsiu was that it looked to be
possibly two weeks away. Yikes! If the Tsiu is that
late, our late run on the Italio may be 3-4 weeks away.
Ouch. I have clients arriving on the 4th, so will try to
give you a better update then. I have too much to do tomorrow
around the cabin, so I won't be able to get out with my rod.
Gotta get the gill-net gear put away for the season, so the yard
isn't a mess for when you sporties descend upon us. By the
way, Tanis has marching orders to go out and "educate"
the day fishermen, so expect a visit from my unsocialized
homeschooled 8 year old and a lecture on keeping your fish carcasses in
the deep part of the river and packing your garbage out. He just
lost another tooth today in his oatmeal.
More in a couple days...
-Bob
August 22nd, 2007 - An
Update Just for Don...
My last entry said I would
be sure to update this at least weekly. Well, after a month
already, here is an update. Thanks Don for reminding me of
my dereliction of duty...
We need rain! All the
rivers - from the Tsiu, Situk, Akwe, East and Italios
- they are bone dry. Good numbers of silvers are being caught in
the bay and ocean, but unless we get a good shot of rain,
they will be weeks away from coming into the rivers. The timing of
this season's returns have been odd to say the least. I spent the
early summer commercial fishing the Akwe, which had a
strong, but late run of kings, very strong but normally
timed run of sockeye and an extremely late run of pinks. The New
Italio is usually tied closely to the Akwe, but this year they
parted company. The New had a very small and very late run of
sockeye and I didn't see any kings at all. Then, both rivers
had no pinks to speak of at all, when they should have been
overwhelmed. We traditionally have an odd year cycle for pinks and
as of the 1st of August, there were only a few dozen coming into
the rivers.
Last week, they
arrived. ALL of them and all at once. I have never seen so
many humpies crammed into the New Italio like that. Of course it
didn't help that there was no water for them to swim in. With all
the pinks, we were still able to weed out a couple silvers here
and there. They are in there as well, but until we get more
water, the majority of them will hold off shore. We were
still catching bright sockeye and a few chum as well. It was
definitely a week of variety. Pinks started to come into the
dribble of water we call the Middle. With so few, so late
and so little water, I doubt we'll have any cutthroat this season
at all.
I'm back in town now,
so the last actual fish day I had was the 17th. I'm sure the
numbers of silvers are increasing day by day. I won't be back out
there till September 1st though, so don't expect another update
for a while. My next trip is another sea-kayak excursion to
Hubbard Glacier. This will be my second this season, the
last being in late May BEFORE the spring break-up. That
time, we spent most of our time pinned to Haenke Island,
since the ice was still so thick. This time, we'll have no
problem paddling into Beluga Bay, so hopefully we'll have lots of
whale watching encounters. The glaciers will be their usual
spectacular selves. I'll try to update the photo pages shortly
afterwards, but since I am a year behind...
Fly Shop Update:
The banner sockeye run put a halt to my renovations and now that the
guide season is here, there is no chance that I'll have the shop
open this season. So... keep an eye out for our April
1st, 2008 grand opening in time for the next steelhead season on
the Situk. The web address for the online shop will be www.situk.com,
while we have the www.situk.net
domain reserved for river and fishing reports and for service provider
information. Stay tuned...
July 28th, 2007 -
Sockeye Run
It has been quite the
unusual season out here on the Italio. The Situk River had a
dismal showing of sockeye, but we experienced a true record
return. I have spent the past 5 weeks commercial fishing on the
Akwe. We caught more kings in the Akwe in the first week than I
have ever caught in an entire season. The run continued well into
last week, but finally collapsed mid week. Most people now
have their eyes firmly fixed on the fall silvers. Not many showing
in the rivers yet, but we have caught a few already,
including two on June 24th! The pinks have yet to arrive and since
last week should have been our peak pink week, they may not.
We'll see how it all goes. I hope to keep this updated at least
weekly throughout the fall season, so check back.
-Bob
April 29th, 2007 - Our
first spring update!
The snow is fast on the melt
and steelhead are in the Situk. As I sit here on my living room
couch, I can see the porpoise pods circling the bait fish schools
in the bay like some National Geographic special. The bears are
starting to wake up, while flocks of sandhill crane fly overhead
by the hundreds, if not thousands. The best part of spring
isn't the abundant wildlife, it is the back of a particular kind
of wildlife... THE BUGS! Out on the Italio, fishing is
a bit slow this time of year. We have a few steelhead, along
with some char and cutthroat making their way into the system. It
is still my favorite time of year by far. The planes haven't begun
their flights to Dry Bay yet and there are no other people to be
seen. We always have the run of the place to ourselves.
Unfortunately, we
haven't made it out to the cabin yet. The family just returned
from a LONG trip to the deep south (Seattle and Montana) to see family
and buy supplies for the coming season. In addition, we have
been busy all winter with renovations in the old WWII hanger,
creating Yakutat's first and only full-service fly shop. We have a
very long way to go before the space is ready for supplies and
merchandise, expecting a grand opening date to be spring 2008 in
time for next year's steelhead run. In the meantime, we will
have a few consumable items available for our "open during
construction" season this year. We'll open the doors around
early June and try to keep them open (to some degree) throughout the
silver season, although my first priority is always on the Italio.
So, if you need things
like flies, leader, fly line, or a replacement rod
after you break yours on a 50lb king, or 20lb silver, or a
10lb sockeye (or that 4lb humpy you tried to release out in the river
and he still had more fight in him than you expected...), stop in
for a visit. I should have a few hats and shirts available with
some funky designs too.
Well, that is what the
Millers have been up to of late. Pat and his gang are heading to
Dry Bay shortly to fire up their fresh market king and sockeye
commercial operation. You can get more info from him by sending
him an e-mail to pat(at)italio.com, replacing the (at) with the @
symbol. Sorry I have to type it that way instead of giving you a
hot link, but the spam crawlers pick e-mail addresses off our web
site and overload us with junk.
Feel free to stop in at the
fly shop, or once our Italio guide season starts, flag me
down as I drive by on the Honda.
-Bob
2006
December 26th, 2006 - A
"Doubter" No More...
As mentioned in the last
entry, Tanis was a "doubter" this year. On
Christmas Eve, he settled in to sleep behind the couch, just
a few feet from the tree in our tiny little house. He intended to
"see Santa" for himself. Of course he sleeps like a rock
once he does finally pass out, so I had hopes of filling the
stockings and loading up the tree with all the presents without him
waking up. He fell asleep pretty quickly, after a long day
of running the kids ragged, loading them up with sugar and waiting
for the sugar crash... Worked like a charm. We said good
night, then retired to our bedroom for a game of cribbage and a
movie. At about 1am, we got up and started unpacking all the
boxes that had arrived in the mail over the past couple weeks.
Tanis was totally unconscious, while Teen and I tiptoed around him
through the night.
"We" finished up
and crawled back into bed. Teen passed out as quickly as the kids
at that point, so I was able to sneak back out to the 'burb where
her presents were stored. I finished everything and crawled into
bed myself at 3:10am, then heard Tanis excitedly stomping up the
stairs at 3:25am. How was that for cutting it close? After
an argument as to why he couldn't open his presents NOW, he
decided to crawl in with us for the rest of the night, or at least
till 6am, when his little sister woke us up.
Thank you everyone for your
kind e-mail messages and cards. Thanks for the books for the kids
as well. It has been a wonderful year, getting to know so
many more of you when you drop in at the Italio during the season and
throughout the off-season via e-mail. Expect a lot of
"advice" from Tanis this coming season, especially if
you spend any time fishing there in front of the cabin. He is
still telling stories to everyone he can, about the guy who let
him land his fish for him and the many other stories about all you
guys. We'll see you next year. And... as soon as the
spring steelhead start into the Situk, I'll try to keep this
updated. Right now, I'm mostly concerned with shoveling snow
off the porch, so don't expect too many updates to this page...
Happy New Year!
The Millers
December 24th, 2006 -
Merry Christmas to all...
We "had" a doubter
in our midst this year... Tanis! Last week, we were
sitting on the couch watching The Polar Express. He turned
to me and matter-of-factly said, "Dad, I know that
Santa isn't real." I stared silently ahead at the TV and he
continued, "You know why I know that? Because reindeer
can't fly". That was it. Later that night in the
kitchen, he repeated it word for word to Teen in the
kitchen. Apparently a week ago Sunday, he asked our pastor
if he believed in Santa and Pastor Jim replied, "Well,
not really". Tanis said he didn't either. Our plan
tonight was to have Tanis help us make it a special event for his little
sister, by staying up with us to fill the stockings and load up
the tree with all the presents that are hidden throughout the house.
Our good friend Fred Bryan
who works at the Forest Service office is Yakutat's resident
"volunteer Santa". Every year, he dresses up and
visits all the community events as the plump jolly red elf. He is
shaped like the big man when not sticking to his Atkins diet, so
the costume fits him pretty well this year (sorry Fred). Last week
at the school program, Fred... I mean Santa delighted
Eden, as she cut to the front of the line and gave him a huge
hug. Tanis asked me afterwards if he could ask Fred if he
was Santa... Tanis had no clue last year that his cubscout leader
was really behind those fake whiskers, but this year he knew the
truth. Here is Fred arriving last year courtesy of the Fire
Department.
Tonight, we watched It's
a Wonderful Life, a family Christmas Eve tradition.
Afterwards, we fired up the computer and watched the Norad
Santa clips, as our government spooks keep close tabs on the
sleigh as it departed the North Pole, enroute for our house later
this evening. Eden was enraptured by the whole deal and I expected
Tanis to be "in on the joke". Well, it now appears
Tanis is back to being the innocent 7 year old we knew him to be.
He will be sleeping in the living room tonight on the floor behind the
couch, hoping to catch Santa in the act of breaking and
entering. Tanis sleeps so soundly that Teen and I will easily be
able to load the tree and stockings with goodies and he won't hear or
see a thing till he wakes in the morning.
Teen managed to accidentally
leave our digital camera at the cabin, so I asked Fred if I could
borrow his for tomorrow. I can't exactly be called a good father
if I don't take any embarrassing pictures of my children on Christmas
morning, now can I? The kids are in bed, so I scooped
up the cookies and carrot (for Cupid this year, since Rudolph
always gets the treats) and gave them to Fred when I picked up the
camera. He is our REAL Santa after all. Thank you
Fred, for all you do for our community. You are truly a
special oversized elf.
Merry Christmas to
everyone, from us Millers.
December 21st, 2006 - Winter
Welcome
It
has been a couple months since I last updated the "Latest
News", so I had better type something. With the
cancellation of the last two weeks of the season, we closed up
camp and came back to town. We had been watching the exodus of
waterfowl since July, so I have been anticipating a cold and hard
winter. Well, we are definitely getting our fair share of
storms. I'm uploading photos from this season hoping to get the
web's photo galleries up to date (I am actually 1 1/2 seasons
behind...), before the next storm hits and knocks my internet
connection out. We are expecting sustained 60+ knot winds,
with gusts exceeding 80 knots. That is over 90 miles per hour for
all you land lubbers... And just in case you wonder why we don't
book groups into December, here is a nice photo of the Middle
Italio lately...
We
are getting a lot of storms, but each big snow is followed by a
big rain to wash it all away. A nice time of year to take stock in
our blessed lives and to enjoy a hot cup of tea by the Christmas
tree. Tanis has settled into his Home Schooling and with the
threat of beatings and Santa bypassing our house, he is more diligent
at completing his tasks. At 7, he is about to finish second
grade. He is working through both multiplication and
division, which just amazes me. His reading has improved so
much over this past year. He hated reading until we participated
in the "Iditaread" program last year. During the
Iditarod, he had to pick a musher and keep up with one page read
for every mile the musher traveled in a day. Well, Tanis
really got hooked, nearly reading enough pages to make it round
trip from Anchorage to Nome and back to Anchorage before the race was
over. His musher of choice was Tom Knolmayer, a doctor from
Fairbanks on his second race. Tom's wife kept an incredible web
update throughout the race, as well as through Tom's pre-race
training with the dogs. It helped to really connect Tanis to the
event and his musher, especially when Tina Knolmayer sent Tanis
Tom's trading cards and a set of booties worn in the actual Iditarod the
previous year. Now, we really can't wait for March 3rd's
start date!
Both
kids can't wait to get "home" to the river. Tanis wanted
to be a "Day Fisherman" for Halloween, but his dad
forgot to bring all his fly gear to town. OOPS! He survived
the holiday by going as Frodo, while little sis Eden went as Tinkerbelle.
It was COLD, but she refused to wear tights, or a
sweater. That just helped to make the slogging around Yakutat
shorter and easier on Teen. I ended up missing all the
"fun", since I was laid up in bed with the flu.
Notice the disastrous pile of crap everywhere? We are still trying
to unpack all our stuff from moving back to town two months
later... Eden is your basic nightmare child when she wants to
be. Are boys easier, or was Tanis just a fluke?
Man, she is stubborn! At least she loves the outdoors,
fishing, hunting, hiking - just as long as she can be in her
pink dress and pink rubber boots.
I am gradually catching up
on all the backlog of duties that comes with returning to town. I
should know exactly which dates will be open for new groups as of
January 1st. With this "interesting" season, we
will have a few slots open up, which is unusual for us. Last
year (as many of you know), we were only able to accommodate one
new group, but I expect to see at least four slots available in
2007. If you haven't done so yet, make sure you get on the
wait list and I will let you know as soon as I know what is available
and what isn't. Click HERE
to get on the waiting list for 2007. Well, that is about all
for tonight. Have a merry Christmas and I'll definitely keep this
up to date in the new year regarding the steelhead run on the Situk and
how the year shapes up on the Italio.
Regards, Bob Miller
October 24th, 2006 - One
More October Update...
Hi
everyone, just thought I'd let you know what was going on now. We
are in the midst of a stormy fall. All those ducks and geese that
were heading south in July knew what was coming! We are about to
get slammed by yet another 50+ knot blow tonight, with the added
bonus of snow. There are still a handful of silvers nosing their
way into the river, but not very many. I doubt Tanis will be
catching us a Halloween silver for dinner like he did last year.
Here is a photo of him and his October 31st silver caught last year in
front of the cabin. Once the storm dissipates, Tanis and I
will be heading upstream to retrieve all the nice lures and flies you
left for him on the trees and on the snags. He has quite the
collection growing. He said today that he'll give all the lures
and spinners to Eden, since he is "now a fly
fisherman"... :-)
Yesterday was a gorgeous
sunny day, with a cold wind blowing from the north. The
fresh coating of snow on the hills and flock after flock of trumpeter
swans made for a wonderful sight. We had a huge bon fire on the
beach, just the family. There was one last group over at the
Forest Service cabin, but they departed today. They
certainly missed a breathtaking sunset last night. The bears have
moved on at last. No sightings in over a week, plus no
tracks anywhere on the beach. This is my favorite time of the year
out here. Even though the fishing is less than our usual
ideal, it is so peaceful and quiet without the planes and
people. Just the roar of the surf, honks of the swans and
the bickering of Tanis and Eden. Ahh, the joys of parenting
in the wilderness. Not too much different than anywhere
else, I guess.
October 12th, 2006 - Our
Season Limps to a Close
This
will be one for the record books. Unfortunately, it ranks as
our all-time worst silver season to date. We had been hoping for a
"late run". Instead, it is just a really poor
return. The silvers are declining in numbers so quickly that I
expect the last one to be caught in the next few days. A far cry
from our usual bountiful October.
Two nights ago, we
were hit by a massive fall storm. Sustained winds of 40
knots, with gusts in excess of 60k. The tidal surge sent
ocean water up into the trail for my cabin, totally submerging all
sand on the entire runway. Nothing was left but the taller grass
and my anchored fish tote. Fishing had been slow up till then with
a couple big storms and floods the previous weeks. This one
however sent so much water up into the rivers that all fish were pushed
way up into the tributary creeks. When the water receded,
there was virtually no fish to be seen, or tempted with a
fly. A handful of new blood have trickled into the various
streams, but there isn't a pod larger than 10 fish anywhere.
The day fly-out fishermen who came yesterday didn't catch a single
fish, so I was told. The group today fared a little
better, but not much. Our group struggled as well,
covering two different rivers with just a little success. The
skies are clear though, with spectacular views of the
mountains. Flocks of trumpeter swans were taking advantage of the
clear skies to head south. Fishing may be slow, but these
sunny fall days are still my favorite.
Thank you for helping make
this a great season, in spite of the weak run. It has been a
pleasure to babble to you through this web page and a greater joy to
meet so many of you on the river this fall. We'll see you back on
the Italio next year.
Sincerely,
Bob, Teen, Tanis and Eden Miller, along with Emma the
nervous bear dog
October 2nd, 2006 - Sea-run
Cutthroat Heaven
I
hadn't planned to keep updating this much in October. As you all
know by now, the silver run is underwhelming and the fly-out trips
have ended. Well, I have to add another brag...
The salmon fishing is
slow. So, to entertain Eric from Idaho as well as
myself, we went in search of sea-run cutthroats. Did we ever
find them! Take a look at this 17 inch fish. I would much
rather hook into one like this than a hundred silvers. I managed
about two dozen takes, but only landed three of them. They
were so fat from the salmon eggs, with bellies bulging. It
didn't seem to make a dent in their appetite in the least. This
was a fun couple hours out in the wilds, with no trace of other
humans anywhere. My kind of fishing...
September 30th, 2006 -
Tanis Lands Two on Top!
Of
course I'm supposed to be guiding clients on the river.
Instead, I seem to just be out having fun with my family all the
time. Today, our new group arrived and we headed out.
On the way to the Old Italio, I picked up Tanis, so he could
spend this surprise sunny day out on the river. Up to this
point, Tanis has hooked silvers with his new fly rod but not
landed them, or landed fish I hooked for him. Maybe this is
all just a technicality, but he hadn't actually hooked and
landed a fish by himself on a fly. That little problem came to an
end today.
Not only did he catch his
own fish, he then proceeded to hook and land two more on top with
poppers. This one is with a Fruit Cocktail, his second fish
on a fly and first on the surface. All the guys were great about
having Tanis along, especially Eric and Warren. Who said
Home Schooling was a drag? Fly fishing is part of his PE
"class"... Daddy is very proud.
With the rivers
dropping, the fishing is improving again. Still way below
normal, but were getting by. A heck of a lot better than
working in an office.
September 29th, 2006 -
Fly-out Day Fishermen
A
phase of our season is coming to a close today. I have to say a
big thank you to all you fly-outs this year... Normally, I
say lots of nasty things about all the people who descend upon my home
every September, for all the garbage and fish guts you leave in my
yard. This season was significantly different. There were
only two "problem" groups the entire month, leaving
garbage and a mess behind. Otherwise, the guts went into the
stream where they did NOT attract bears. One day had pop cans and
garbage left upstream at the Alder Hole, but every other day was
either cleaned up by other visitors, or everyone flew out their
own garbage. One big batch of garbage was left here at the
cabin, but a group that did not leave the mess was happy to fly it
to town for me. Thanks! Also, I can't thank you enough
for putting up with Tanis and Eden throughout the season. Tanis
came back with lots of stories from the friends he made. A couple
guys let Tanis land their fish, which made him quite the happy
little 7 year old. Special thanks to Pat, John and Bob last
week. He couldn't remember the 4th name of your group, but
he is still talking about you guys.
Also in the news, Teen
caught her first fish EVER two nights ago and it was on a
fly! Tanis was out "guiding" with us, so we had
quite the family experience at the Alder Hole, forgetting entirely
about the clients we were supposed to be helping. Thanks Phil for
letting us have such a great time out there in the flooded river.
Fishing has been very slow this week following the big storm. The
river flooded and all the fish pushed way up into the tributary creeks
beyond our reach. The water is dropping and the fish are trickling
back into the river, so October will be slow, but not a
disaster. My next group will be arriving in less than a half
hour, so I had better sign out. Till next time...
-Bob
September 26th, 2006 -
SL-O-W Fishing Season Continues...
Well, it seems to be
looking like we won't be having much of a late run after all. It
is just really weak. Second season in a row, for those who
are counting. The numbers of fish in the Old Italio are really
low, with maybe 300 fish total in the flats. There are just
two holes where the fish are holding, so it doesn't take much
fishing pressure to make that an elbow to elbow experience. Most
of the day fly outs have been to the Middle Italio, where there
have been more fish to catch, but still way below our normal
levels. Yesterday the fishing in the Alder and Spruce Holes were
OK, but tonight it was pretty dismal. A few fish scattered
about, but no concentrations to speak of. Maybe 1000 fish in
the entire system. Last week, I fished the New Italio and
had a wonderful day. 1000 fish in just the bottom mile, so
that was sure promising. The next day, it flooded really
badly after not that much rain, making it unfishable. The
ground is still so super saturated that even a little rain will wipe it
out. Same problem with the Akwe, so both rivers are pretty
hit and miss.
To the guys who left their
pop and beer cans upstream yesterday, I'm so looking forward to
you flying back out next year for the day. With any luck, a
bear will eat you and we won't have to see your crap all over the bank
again. To the guys I met today out on the Old Italio, it was
a pleasure and I hope the rest of your trip goes just as well. The
forecast for tomorrow is calling for 45 knot winds and heavy rain
though. It was supposed to hit today, which turned out to me
sunny and gorgeous with little wind.
A day fisherman hooked a
silver in front of my cabin this evening while waiting for the
plane. He let Tanis reel it in and made him a happy little
guy. So many great people come out here and share our river.
It "almost" makes up for the twits, but not quite.
The season is coming to a close, so with any luck, next year
will see the ratio of great guys to twits improve. Tanis took a
bunch of our 2006 Italio hats and sold them out to some campers. I
think next year, I'll have some made up just for him and Eden to
sell, so they can earn some of their own spending money.
What do you think? He was so thrilled that they wanted
"his" hats, so I'll see what he and I can come up with
for a 2007 Italio River design. Keep an eye out for a couple
little kids and their "lemonade stand" next September.
September
15th, 2006 - Blue Skies and Silver Streaks
Yesterday was the first real
day of good fish. On the evening tide, they were coming in
by the hundreds in the Middle Italio. The sun was bright and the
river has dropped to a nice level. They wouldn't bite anything we
threw at them... The morning started with a thick layer of
fog. No planes could fly out, which was just great for
us. We had the place to ourselves all morning. The fog
lifted around 10am and the flights descended. Fishing was still
tough all day with not many coming in on the small morning tide.
The evening tide changed everything. They were streaming in the
mouth. A layer of fog passed through and the bite was on!
Everyone hooked up at once. Then the fog passed and as soon as the
bright sun returned, no one could get a hit. There was a
combination of our flies and the Forest Service cabin renter's spin
hardware and nothing worked. Frustrating to have such closed
mouths, but refreshing to see so many fish finally in the
system. Tanis landed a Humpy on his fly rod, although I
hooked it for him. His casting is really great, looking
better than most of the day fishermen. Not bad for a 7 year old on
the 3rd day after I put his rod together. He had a silver swirl
after a bass popper on his own cast, but it didn't take it.
Fun just to watch him! All the guys stopped fishing to watch and
listen to his self-commentary. In the end, it was a great
day, capped by steak night at the camp. 45 day wet aged
tenderloins, topped with our cranberry port sauce.
Yum! Tanis stayed for dinner too and he was the perfect little
mini-guide. So cute!
Today brought another
gorgeous fall day. The mountains were spectacular and there were
lots of fish again. Yesterday wasn't a fluke. Unfortunately
there were a ton of day fishermen out here. It was shoulder to
shoulder combat fishing at the mouth. Still no fish to speak of in
the upper holes and a bear ran the guys off the river up there mid
day. We went down to the Akwe and had a great time in
seclusion. I have my last kayak trip scheduled for Monday and if
this weather holds, it should be an incredible end to that part of
the season.
September
11th, 2006 - Remembering That Day
Back in 2001, one of
our clients arrived short a bag. His clothes were in
Seattle, but the important stuff - his fly rod and waders - were
here where they should have been. Alaska Airlines promised to
deliver the missing bag around noon on the 11th. It didn't
happen. The river was completely deserted and the fishing was
great. It didn't dawn on us that there were absolutely no planes
flying until about 2pm. Teen (my wife) heard a couple boats
talking on the marine VHF about "something", but they
didn't say any details. There was a mention that all airspace was
closed and they said a couple times that "all the footage was the
same old stuff, nothing new". Well, out here
without TV or even radio, we had no idea what the "old
footage" was. By 4pm, we learned a few more details
from a commercial fisherman about 15 miles away via the VHF.
Well,
Don never did get his bag. We all pooled our extra socks and
shirts to make sure he was clothed. The seven clients, along
with Pat, Teen and my then toddler son Tanis and I clung together
throughout the week and we all became very good friends. They were
an incredible bunch of people to weather such a time with. The
restrictions on air travel were lifted before any of them were supposed
to fly out, but they opted to stay over a few extra days until
some of the more desperate people got out of Yakutat. There were
lodges in town that lost literally hundreds of bookings throughout the
remainder of their season. We only had one single guy cancel his
trip. This was the first season we operated the main camp,
but fortunately bookings improved in our second season in spite of the
downturn in tourism.
That
year, Don came up to "investigate" our operation and see
if the Italio would be a place to bring a full group in the
future. Don has been back every year since, always arriving
on the 10th, but never again losing his clothes. Here are
three photos from that fateful day 5 years ago. Don is at the top
and he is with us this very evening. The Kettners (plus
Todd, Anna and Jenna) are next. Rob and Karen came up in
July for the sockeye run. Then the third photo is of the Miller
family as it appeared then, before Eden's arrival. Doesn't
Tanis look adorable? Teen looks good too. I look exhausted.
On this terrible day,
we all appreciated the blessings we had. The friendships we
created, the support we all gave to each other and the thought
that if we had to be somewhere during such a difficult time, the
Italio is just about as good a place to be as any. We spent a lot
of time fishing through our shock and grief, but we never lost
sight of the important things. I hope your personal memorial of
this tragic day isn't filled with the pain we all felt then. We
spent today catching lots of big silver salmon, followed by way
too much food and talking and laughing with friends around the dinning
table. Anything less is a disservice to the people who lost their
lives and a victory for those who would rejoice in our loss.
My greatest memory from
today will be Tanis learning to cast his first fly rod in front of the
cabin, with his mommy learning to flyfish right along by his
side. They both had their first "take" on a fly
today, but neither set the hook. This - their second day
ever of holding a fly rod - was a good one, not a tragic
one. I hope you had as good a day as we did. The fish are
finally here.
-Bob
September
9th, 2006 - Finally a Good Day of Fishing
The weather was pretty
bad. The river was pretty flooded. The fishing was pretty
good. Not exactly breathtaking, but it was a good day.
Lots of day fishermen on the Middle Italio, but we had the Old
Italio to ourselves. Two batches of fish in the lower river for me
and (client) John to work. With the elevated water level and high
turbidity, plus 30 knot winds and frequent heavy rain
showers, the conditions were somewhat less than ideal. Who
cares! The fish were hungry and it was just the two of us out on
the flooded sandflats. All I can say is that it is about
time! One good day does not necessarily mean the run is
here, or that we'll have another good day tomorrow. It was a
nice way for John to end the last day of his trip though. A
nice bookend, with the great sunny kayak trip at the start.
September
7th, 2006 - Still Waiting...
WOW! I'm actually
keeping this thing updated. Too bad I don't have anything good to
report. I guess if we had fish, I'd be out fishing instead
of updating our latest news... Gee, did I just give away the
ending? Another storm passed and flooded us pretty good.
Fishing has been hard this week, after some pretty promising days
last week. The first couple days of the month had quite a few
silvers coming in (along with quite a few humpies). The kayak trip
on Harlequin Lake the 3rd was gorgeous. No wind and beautiful
clear skies. The storm hit on the 4th, although it wasn't as
bad as the weather service was predicting. It was enough to flood
the river and scatter our few fish across a wide area.
Today has been dry, so
hopefully the water will drop quickly and the run will start to arrive
as it should have a couple weeks ago. Our group took a day trip to
the west side of Yakutat Bay in search of silvers, but came back
empty handed there too. It is slow all over.
And now a personal thank you
to everyone who has sent messages about Rhett. It is amazing how
many lives that darned dog touched out here in the middle of
nowhere. If he stole your sack lunch, I'm truly sorry.
If he made you feel safer around all our bears, well then you are
welcome. Emma and Rhett loved to chase the bears out of the
yard, but she is a real wimp without him. She actually
expects ME to chase bears with her... Tanis and I buried him on
the grass hump at the southeast end of the runway last February,
right in front of where the satellite dish is now. Feel free to
say hello to him, as he watches over the salmon run for us.
Hey, maybe it is his fault the fish aren't here...
September 1st, 2006 - A
Break in the Storm
We have a break in our
endless series of storms. The rivers were the most flooded they
have been all year as of this morning, but the rain had
stopped. The sun came out by noon and the Middle Italio dropped a
foot by this evening. This week, we have been running with a
ratio in the river of about 10:1 pinks to silvers. We have been
catching about 50:50 though, due to the more voracious appetite of
the silvers. Overall, fishing is still very slow for our
standards, but not a dismal disaster. Haven't seen any bears
for weeks, but the tracks have returned. Seems to be back to
a normal level of bear activity, but if you come out, be
very careful. We don't want our record numbers of bears to return!
I'll be taking another kayak
trip through the icebergs this weekend, before we come back down
for the fishing part of the trip. This break in the weather should
hold long enough for that. John and Jim arrived today in Yakutat
and will be out on a deep-sea halibut charter with Sea Raven Charters
tomorrow. Sunday, we'll spend the day paddling through the
ice on Harlequin Lake, before taking my jet-boat down the
Dangerous River to the beach, where the ATV will be waiting.
We'll be fly fishing Monday morning again. Next update will follow
that.
-Bob
August 27th, 2006 - Silvers
are Trickling In!
We FINALLY had a batch of
silvers come into the Middle Italio today. Caught two in front of
my cabin this evening and seeing quite a bit of wake in the river on the
outgoing tide. The river is still pretty flooded, with
another storm expected soon. With the ground as saturated as it
is, every drop of rain is going to blow the rivers out.
But... at least it looks like some fish are here.
August 26th, 2006 - Bear
and Fish Update...
After a rough bear
season, we have some good news. They "seem to"
have moved on for the time being. As you may have already read
previously, we has a heck of a time with the bears in June and
July. More than I have ever seen in my entire life on the
Italio. When the wild strawberries came into their peak, the
bears moved upstream on the Akwe to the better berry grounds,
leaving the Italio behind. Two weeks later when the strawberry run
had subsided, the bears were right back in the yard. They
didn't find any pink salmon at all, so in order to eat, they
had to once again move on. That was two weeks ago and they haven't
been back. I see a set of tracks on the ATV trail once in a
while, but nothing like we were seeing. We did run into
another wolf today and had to keep it away from Emma... Although
the bears seem to be gone, they will undoubtedly be back when the
fish arrive. Please take care not to feed or habituate them!!!!
Now for the fish... it
isn't looking good! We caught two pinks in the German Hole
yesterday, our first fish period in the Middle Italio for the
year. I did see a "V" wake passing my cabin yesterday
evening as well, but no idea if it was a pod of pinks, or
our first trace of silvers. I'm thinking the run on the Italio is
about three weeks late at this point. No trout to speak of
either, since there were no pinks for them to follow in and if the
pinks still haven't made it into the river, the silvers that
follow them are still a long way off. Heck, the gill-netters
in Yakutat Bay are still catching good numbers of SOCKEYE!!! Day
fishing on the Italio may be a bust this season, especially since
we run at least a couple weeks later than the Situk.
Weather has been
awful. Hit by yet another storm last night, so the flooding
is pretty extensive. The New Italio and Akwe Rivers are unfishable
at present, while the Old Italio has water a half mile wide across
the flats. The Middle Italio is flooded and dark brown, but
fishable - if there were fish in it. It looks to be "one of
those years"...
August 10th, 2006 - Satellite
Internet is Up and Running!
It look me a lot longer than
I expected to get the Starband dish aligned and functional. Sorry
for the delay and lack of updates. The fishing news from
throughout the region is that the runs are LATE. Kings were very
late, at their peak in mid-June, with good numbers
throughout most of July. Sockeye were very late everywhere EXCEPT
the Akwe River. We had a nice strong and consistent run that
lasted a full 6 weeks. With that said, we were still hooking
into sockeye yesterday! I had what I would say was the best day of
sockeye fishing in my entire life the third week of July. Crystal
clear water running a bit low on the New Italio. Not a lot of
fish, but there were 4 good schools in the lower stretch of the
river near Ryman's cabin. Working with the Kettners from
Washington, we were able to get takes on nearly every cast.
If your drift was spot on, you hooked a sockeye. If it was
even slightly off, you hooked a Dolly Varden.
As for the pinks, I
expected to have a small run this year. The Italio and Akwe
systems have an odd year pink cycle, but we have virtually none at
all. Throughout August, we would expect on the off year to
have many tens of thousands, however we are literally seeing tiny
pockets of our smallest salmon species. The chum fishing,
probably due to the lack of pinks in the way, has been very good
for us. Our chum runs are not large, but they seem to be
building. I would expect the low pink run is also responsible for
our continued success with sockeye. Sockeye are a more challenging
fish to catch and a large number of hungry and aggressive pinks usually
get to your fly first.
Alaska Department of Fish
and Game is predicting a weak silver return this fall. The
official weir count on the Situk River for yesterday was 35 fish.
Yikes! The peak on the Situk is supposed to be in three
weeks. We caught our first silver on the Akwe June 25th and hokked
several yesterday on the New Italio. There are absolutely no
salmon on the Middle and Old Italios yet, so Fish and Game may
actually be right for a change. Or... the run could be
late. Or... with no pinks to speak of, they haven't
any reason to come in during the early part of the season. I was
very pleased with the numbers we saw yesterday (especially since we were
catching 4 out of the 5 salmon species at the same time). Today
marks the official start of our silver season. We broke our first
rod on a silver this morning. John from Colorado lost his 9 wt. to
a surprisingly small silver buck on the New Italio. I'm going to
try and keep a running total on the HomePage of
our broken rod count this year.
The bear situation has been
"awful" this summer. I have never seen this many bears
in my life and as you probably know, I have lived in this cabin
since I was 4 years old! We have had 5 different sows with 2-3
cubs each, two 3 year olds hanging together and at least a dozen
individuals living between the Akwe Mouth and Middle Italio Mouth.
While commercial fishing, I had a bear who after being unable to
get the lid off my tote, he flipped the entire tote, trailer
and 400 pounds of sockeye into the flooded New Italio. The
strawberries are ripe on the beach, so we have been seeing them
everywhere. Hopefully, once the berries fade and with no
pinks available, they will have to move on to find food before the
silver season hits in earnest. If not, the day fishermen
(and I'm talking to you!!!) will quickly train them to look at people as
a food source, creating a nightmare for all of us on the
river. Please:
*Feed the fish, not the
bears! Throw your fish
waste into the deepest part of the river, NOT ON THE BANK!
If they look to the water as the provider of their food, we will
all stay alive. Let me be perfectly clear: if I left waste
and food around all summer the way many of you day fishermen do,
the bears would probably eat you the moment you stepped off the
plane. Don't put my 3 year old daughter and 7 year old son at risk
by being stupid.
*Pay attention to your surroundings! Look
around you when you are fishing and don't stash gear and lunch where an
animal can find it. Keep it with you!
*Stay in a group! Unless
you are very experienced out here, don't wander around upstream
alone. Wild bears don't charge groups of people.
*Pack it out! Don't leave
anything behind. ANY garbage helps to habituate bears to people
and it looks like crap. Bury your poop and burn your TP, fly
out EVERYTHING else! Again, if I left garbage around here
the way many of you day fishermen do, you wouldn't want to come
here. Hey, now that is an idea... :-)
*Planes and birds don't mix! Don't
clean fish where the plane picks you up. Hitting a flock of sea
gulls on take off causes a lot of plane crashes. Do you want it to
be yours? Since most of the day fishermen land right in my front
yard, I would also ask that you clean your fish elsewhere so bears
and wolves don't look to my yard as a feeding station.
Otherwise, we'll see you on the
river. More updates to come at least weekly now... Unless
the fishing is just too god for me to bother sitting here at my
laptop...
-Bob
May 7th, 2006 - We're
on the River Now!
Hi all, don't expect
many updates from here on out. The fish are here, so I'm on
the river. I will have satellite internet this summer at my
cabin, but it will take me a while to get the dish all set
up. I'm still waiting for my generator to arrive. Don't
bother calling on the phone, but I can answer e-mail questions
once we are back online. Thanks! -Bob
News
Flash! - April
6th, 2006
Last
minute cancellation - third week of SEPTEMBER!!!
Never
mind on this. It is now officially filled (as of Sept 7th)
March
1st, 2006 - Spring is Just Around the Corner
This has been a difficult
winter around here and I can't say I'm disappointed to see winter in the
taillights. Losing Rhett and the house fire were plenty to mar the
end of 2005 and the start of 2006. But... the sun is
out, the snow is melting and soon the salmon will be back in the
yard.
Two days ago, there
were two humpback whales that strayed into the bay. They spent the
day playing around for us to watch. Yesterday, we had a pod
of porpoise just off the end of the dock, circling the bait fish
straight out of a National Geographic special. The eagles
disappeared a week or so ago and are now feeding on the eulachon schools
(candlefish) at the Italio and Akwe mouths. Yes, spring is
nearly here. Reports from the Situk have been that the winter
steelhead run was a disappointment, but they are expecting a great
spring run. With our mild winter, I would expect another
early run, with easy access to the river. If you are
considering a steelhead trip this spring, come early to catch the
early run and avoid the crowds.
February
1st, 2006 - Goodbye Rhett, We'll Miss
You!
This past week, our
beloved male Weimaraner Rhett passed away. Yesterday, Tanis
and I buried him out along the bank of the Middle Italio River,
where we spent so many wonderful seasons with him. For those of
you who knew Rhett, or had him chase a bear away for you,
you'll understand what a tremendous loss this is to all of us. He
was a poorly bred puppy mill dog, who spent his early life
abused, beaten and locked in a box. He came to us through
the Sacramento Weimaraner Club and their rescue efforts. We
certainly had our share of "issues" to work though, but
providing a loving home to this troubled and abused dog was a reward for
us beyond measure, let alone the reward he received by living the
ideal dog's life on the beaches of the Italio, Akwe and Dangerous
Rivers... Chasing bears, moose, salmon,
eagles, or just basking in our occasional sun on the beach.
Back
in the winter of 1999, a group of volunteers shuttled him up to
Portland, OR where we picked him up just after Christmas.
Each person took a leg of the journey, driving till they reached
the rendezvous point with the next volunteer. In Rhett's
honor, we started the Weimaraner Rescue Railroad, to assist
other needy rescues across the country with long distance transports to
their new homes. Please visit www.weim.org
to learn more about Rhett's network of volunteers throughout the United
States and Canada.
For Rhett's sake,
please consider adopting a dog instead of buying a puppy. All
breeds are overproduced, leaving literally millions of beautiful
dogs to be euthanized every year simply because there are too many of
them to find homes for. Please take a look at www.weimrescue911.org
for more information about rescue and to locate the nearest rescue
organization to you. Thank you. Rhett would thank you too.
Sincerely,
Bob Miller
January 23rd, 2006 - Satellite
Internet!
At long last, I have
semi-reliable high speed internet. That means I will be able to
upload this massive backlog of photos from the past two years and update
the very old web site. We'll have new navigation buttons,
lots of new photos and hopefully the whole thing will be much more
interesting. We will also have internet access at my cabin this
summer, so I'll be able to make changes throughout the season and
even answer e-mail with a reasonable response time, instead of
having to wait a month till I get back to town. I'll be able to
keep this updated for run strength throughout the season, maybe
even have a live underwater web cam eventually. OK, maybe
not, but technology is invading the wilderness and hopefully in a
good way.
We have had a very warm and
wet winter so far. Not a flake of snow on the ground since the
first week of November. Last night, the snow started to fall
and we have about a foot in the yard. With so little snow,
we'll have to see how this effects the river this summer, when
flow rates depend on snow melt. I sure would hate to see the river
dry up during that one week we see of sunny weather... Let the
snow continue to fall.
One good thing has been the
easy access to the Situk throughout winter. Steelhead have been in
the river, with no tourists to get in the way. Not a single
drift boat. If you are interested in coming to Yakutat for a
winter shot of steelhead, check in and I'll try to give you a
report and some recommendations. I can not guide on the
Situk, but I'd be happy to take a day off from homeschooling Tanis
for a day playing on the river...
Bob Miller
December 3rd, 2005 - Finally
an Update
The season came to an end
without too much fanfare. The silver season was a disappointment,
but we still had a good time trying. The peak came around the
third week of October and it still was pretty weak. Oh well.
We were bound to have an off season eventually. We stayed out on
the river till November 5th, then flew to town to try and catch up
on 4 months of messages in my inbox. Before I had a chance to make
a dent, our furnace caught fire and burned up the furnace room in
our house. Fortunately, the fire didn't spread beyond there,
although two weeks without heat as the Alaskan winter set in was not
pleasant.
So... that is my
excuse for not being very good at updates. As I gradually catch
up, I'll be updating the web site with new photos and stories from
the '05 season. Stay tuned...
August 27th, 2005 - What
a Storm!
As
most of you know, we get pretty wet in September and October,
but 9.9 inches of rain in 24 hours is a lot regardless of the season.
Now for August, that much rain is unheard of even for Yakutat!
It has been a mighty wet week, that is for sure. We have
been watching geese fly south by the thousands for the past month and a
half, also very early. All I can surmise is that they know
what we can only guess. We may be in for a wicked fall and winter.
August sure has shaped up to look that way.
In
spite of our strong and early king, sockeye and pink salmon runs,
the silver run is showing no signs of arriving yet. The rivers of
the area with much earlier runs than the Italio (Situk and Tsiu) still
haven't seen the arrival of their silvers, making the Italio and
Akwe's late run even later. We started catching a handful the
second week of August, but those fish disappeared. Still
thousands of pinks and great sea-run cutthroat fishing, but the
silvers are holding off yet. I floated the Italio last week from
the falls and counted only 2 silvers above the inter-tidal zone.
Yikes! There were still a few kings, 1500-2000 sockeye,
1000 chum and at least 100,000 pinks in the river below the falls,
but silvers were hard to come by.
If you are planning a trip
to Yakutat this fall, expect a wet and stormy trip. If you
see a glimpse of our famously tall mountains, consider yourself
lucky indeed. We had such a glimpse today and the stars are out
tonight. Another storm is in the forecast though... I'll be
heading back to the river in another day and I don't expect to return to
town till at least the end of October, perhaps November if the run
is as late as it is looking. We do still have a slot available for
a group of 4 or less arriving October 18th in case you are interested.
Call the 1-866-737-1123 number and leave a message if you are interested
in coming up. Otherwise, there is always next year.
Tight lines! - Bob
August 2nd, 2005 - Adventure
Trips are Over... Here Come the Silvers
This
past month, I had the unbelievable pleasure of taking Doug and
Lisa on their honeymoon trip. We spent 9 days kayaking up Russell
Fiord, through the gap at the Hubbard Glacier and then on into
Yakutat. Over 100 miles of paddling in just over a week! It
was a lot of work with some mighty long days, but OH, was it
ever worth it. I have some amazing photos and stories to share,
but it will have to wait a couple more months. We have fly fishing
on our minds now!
My
last "adventure trip" of the season was a lot less extreme.
Jim, Sean and I spent two nights by the face of the Yakutat
Glacier watching a mountain goat amble up and down the sheer cliffs
while the glacier rumbled and moaned in the background. Then,
it was on to Italio Falls and the wettest camping trip I have ever been
on. We floated out after one night at the falls to find the best
Dolly Varden fishing of my life just above Haverstock Island.
Another couple days of sea-run cutthroat fishing on the Middle Italio
brought our wet, but amazing trip to a close.
Now, we have silvers
on our doorstep and they will be hitting the river any day now.
Don't expect me to be anywhere near a computer till at least the end of
October. If I'm not losing flies on big powerful Coho, then
I'll be frantically tying more up for another day's adventure. See
you on the river...
June 10th, 2005 - Quite
the Special Weekend
Last
weekend, I took the Tanis out to the river again for a brief trip
to open up the camp and haul loads of supplies out for the season.
Well, it was just for two nights, but what an experience,
especially for the Tanis. We home school him, so we always
have to keep an eye out for interesting situations that can turn into
some sort of lesson. For those of you who have done the Italio
Float with me, that often means some sort of painful
"character building" trip, but this time, we had
nature in all its glory fall right in our laps.
Spring
is the time for baby critters to make their first appearance in
the world. On day one, we went beachcombing between the Old
and Middle Italios and spotted a bald eagle on something along the surf
line. As we approached, it flew off revealing a baby seal
pup that strayed out of the water. The mother seal was just off
shore unable to get the pup back into the water, so the eagle was
about to pluck its eyes out for a snack. There is nothing warm and
fuzzy about mother nature and we see the worst of it all too often up
here in this pristine wilderness.
With Tanis' help, we herded the
pup back into the water without scaring it too much, or having to
resort to handling it. Yes, seals eat the salmon we catch,
but this poor helpless pup didn't deserve to suffer the kind of death so
many of them suffer at the hands of mother nature and the eagles.
On
day two, we were heading back to the Dangerous River for the
jet-boat trip back to town. As we drove the 4-wheeler along,
I noticed a tiny set of moose tracks zig-zagging back and forth all over
the beach. There were no larger tracks anywhere, so this
little guy lost his way and his mother. Just before crossing the
Old Italio at our ford, there he was laying in the sand. He
was exhausted and didn't move much as we approached. Sean (one of
our part-time guides) and I contemplated what we should do about it.
In the past, people around Yakutat have taken orphaned calves in
to bottle nurse till they can browse on their own, most recently
about 4 years ago right in town at the Glacier Bear Lodge.
Unfortunately,
we had a tide to catch and couldn't stay to help this tiny little
awkward guy out. We had to leave him to his wanderings on the open
sand flats, but once we were back in town, I notified Alaska
Dept. of Fish and Game and I planned to head back out that evening.
Their response was that it was illegal for us to save the calf and that
nature should just take its course.
Yes,
I know. Nature is a cruel place where compassion doesn't exist.
So many moose calves are killed every year by wolves and bears out here,
probably more than survive. This guy was practically still wet
from birth and may not have been able to survive had we intervened
anyway. Since he was about 4 miles from the nearest tree and
hearing even farther, it is clear he didn't survive. It was
a difficult evening for me none the less, knowing he was probably
spending his last night alive, cold and alone. Of my three
options (leaving him to die, ending his suffering, or
breaking the law to raise a "pony" for the kids this summer),
the worst of the three came to pass.
Just another day in the life out in
the Alaskan wilderness. One baby saved, another lost.
A little "character building" lesson for me i guess.
Next time, Fish and Game probably won't be on my consultation
list...
June 8th, 2005 - The
Season is Upon Us!
Yes, the season is
already upon us on the Italio. Although the Italio River is more
famous for its silver salmon run, we have been seeing really
strong sockeye runs as well for the past several years. This
season appears to be no exception and the fish are early. VERY
early. Similar to last year, the warmer than usual winter
seems to be bringing the runs for most of the area's rivers two weeks to
a month earlier than "scheduled". We'll be expecting
great silvers in August again in 2005, so if you don't find
yourself booked into an Alaskan trip this year, we do have one
slot open the second week of August for up to 8 people (Aug 5th through
Aug 12th for 5 or 7 nights) and we can take small groups of up to 4 for
the weeks of Aug 16th to Aug 22nd, or Aug 23rd to Aug 28th.
Last year's early run gave us some of the best silver fishing of the
season during these slots.
January 27th, 2005 - Waiting
for the Sun
Winter in
Yakutat allows me to catch up on all those things that just don't seem
so important when the fish are running (like updating this page).
We didn't have a white Christmas, rather brown actually.
Snows have come and gone, but mostly gone for the 4th winter in a
row. Yakutat may lack that "post card" quality we like,
but a warm winter does have its advantages. #1 on that list would
be the easy and early access a low snow pack offers. Once spring
arrives and with it, the spring steelhead run, tromping
through waist-deep snow won't be a problem to get to the river. Of
course Yakutat is home to the famous Situk River, with its
"largest wild steelhead run in Alaska". The Situk isn't
the only game in town however.
Last spring,
I was finally able to float the Italio from mountain lake to the ocean
in early May. With Harlequin Lake frozen over, it is a 3
mile hike to the Italio trailhead, then a 3 mile hike into the
falls. Not something that snow would make easier.
Unfortunately my client and I did not find the run strength we had hoped
for, so Pat and I have decided the Italio steelhead run needs some
peace and quite to build into a world-class fishery. I do plan on
keeping a close eye on it over the years, so if you have an
interest in going on a R & D float trip, this is as remote an
Alaskan experience as you can get. Yes, the Situk has a lot
of fish, but there is nothing like spending a week without seeing
another human being.
Other area
rivers offer great spring runs. The Akwe River (see "The
Rivers") has steelhead and trout through April and May.
Italio River Adventures can access the Akwe River mouth and estuary,
although we do not fish the upper region of the river. There are
two outfitters that can take you fishing on this glacially fed stream,
or it can be accessed as a day-trip fly-out destination via Alsek Air
and Yakutat Coastal Airways. April and May are usually the best
steelhead months, however be aware that a warm winter can bring
great fishing throughout January, February and March as well.
As I said before, access isn't a problem when there isn't any
snow.
August 26th, 2003 - The
Silvers are Here!
A couple days ago, I
hiked into Italio Falls to prepare for an upcoming float trip.
Stumbling through the forest with a raft on my back isn't exactly the
most fun I have ever had, however the destination is so worth
every step. The sun was out, the falls were filled with
salmon climbing the steps and a huge brown bear was perched at the top
waiting for the right moment to grab his meal. Although he was
spectacular to watch, as soon as Emma spotted the bear, she
took off after him and sent him well on his way.
Usually when I hike into the
upper reaches of the Italio, I have clients with me and therefore,
I don't have the ability to explore. On this day, I was on
my time. With tens of thousands of fish all around me, I
worked areas of the river that quite possibly have never seen an angler
before. Beginning tomorrow, I have the rare privilege of
guiding just one client on an Italio Float. With just the two of
us, we will have the luxury of going anywhere and doing anything
that sounds good. Something that just isn't possible with a large
group of eight.
Day one will be spent
entirely on the north spur. Below the massive impassible fall,
there are deep blue holes cut into the bedrock where hundreds of salmon
are schooled. I was able to pull a beautiful cutthroat out from
there before moving on to a completely different experience.
Downstream a bit further, the rapid features a patchwork of deep
spots surrounding each of the larger boulders. The Chum salmon had
gathered there and put up a mighty good fight. As the river
straightens out and shallows, Pinks scattered themselves about in
the loose gravel. Sockeye dotted the lower stretches in glowing
red, with Dolly Varden waiting for eggs to tumble down from the
redds.
Day two will be at Italio
Falls, where surprisingly I pulled several silvers out in rapid
succession, before hooking a variety of other species. I was
surprised to see them as far upstream as the falls already. We may
spend as many as five days fishing the area above the fork, before
floating our way down to tide-water. This sure is a tough life,
but somebody has to do it. It might as well be me. What is
stopping you?
Bob
August 17th, 2003 - A
year since I last updated this page!?!?
Holy cow!
My sincere apologies for being so behind. As I typed the last
message last year, the silvers were beginning to arrive in droves,
so my priorities changed from playing online to catching fish. I'm
sure you can understand. Then at the end of the year, Teen
had to be shipped out to Juneau for months. The pregnancy was
going just fine, but with virtually no medical services to speak
of in Yakutat, we had to wait and wait and wait in a motel down
there.
On 03-03-03,
she gave birth to a beautiful little girl we named Eden Branwen Mesa
Miller. She is now 5 months old and still the happiest baby on
earth. This is now two perfect kids, so if we have a third,
we are doomed. I certainly deserve a horror child, but poor
Teen would bare the brunt of it. Having to put up with me is more
than she should have to. Anyway...
The silvers
are once again starting to arrive and I'm heading back out to the river
for a couple months of utter bliss. Tight lines...
Bob
Hubbard Glacier's Advance
August 23rd, 2002 - Its
Over for This Year
I fly to Seattle for a
week and what happens? About 12 inches of rain falls in two days,
causing the lake to overflow the moraine and wash it almost completely
away. A day later, Hubbard was again calving and performing
its seasonal retreat - Yakutat's "end of the world" seems to
be over for the time being. However, all the geologists and
glaciologists are actively predicting WHEN (not if) Hubbard will do it
right.
We've been a little busy
with trips, fishing and business this last month, so I haven't
been updating this as regularly as I intended. I do have all sorts
of photos to post and will do so this week as I catch up on everything.
The most telling image I can give you is the lake water-level graph from
the USGS web site. It tells it all...

July 19th, 2002 - Getting
Tighter Each Day
Here are a
batch of photos taken July 7th by Harold Robbins and Mary McMullen.
The Forest Service is still saying that the glacier is no longer
advancing this season, but when you compare these photos to the
photos below from just two weeks before, it is pretty clear that
the glacier is still closing the gap. You can also see how the
entire glacier is fitting around the curve of Gilbert Point,
unlike the narrow little spit of ice that blocked the fiord in 1986.

Looking up the Hubbard into Canada.

This photo shows how little separates Hubbard (on the right) from
the Turner Glacier on the left. In the Landsat5 photos below (the
first from 1985, then 1986), the terminal face of the
Valerie Glacier (the ice above Hubbard divided by the black streak) has
advanced a full mile toward Turner.

There have been reports from the
Park Service that water is bubbling from underneath the glacier escaping
from Russell Fiord/Lake. Not a significant enough amount to drain
the lake however. Russell Lake is rising as much as 8 inches a
day, up from the 6 inches last month. It is still trickling
over the terminal moraine, however the moraine is rising with the
lake to compensate. The lake is about 40 feet higher than sea
level now, with another 70 feet before it overflows into the Situk
River. In 1986, the lake rose between 78 and 83 feet
(depending on which government agency you talk to) before the pressure
broke through the narrow ice dam.
From these photos, you can
see that there is a world of difference between how much ice is sealing
off the fiord now and in 1986. With just the narrow 1986 dam,
it was still able to rise to 80 feet. Some people are speculating
that the glacier may float before it reaches a height enough to wipe out
the Situk. With a glacier 600 feet thick and with 300 feet if ice
above sea level, the 110 feet needed to overflow still leaves 33%
of the glacier above the surface of the lake. Icebergs float at
10% above, so I don't think the float-theory is very likely.
The chance of a sudden break-out is also unlikely in my opinion,
since there is so much more ice this time around.
No one knows how the tremendous
weight of the added water will effect the tectonic plates. Yakutat
was home to the 4th largest earthquake ever in 1899 and is frequently
rocked with smaller quakes. Russell and Nunatak Fiords have a
total surface area of about 70 square miles. The weight of 110
feet of water over 70 square miles will be dramatic.
The Situk River will become a
raging torrent of trees and debris. The current sport,
subsistence and commercial fisheries will be devastated... in the
short term. A lake the size of Russell and Nunatak Fiords will
eventually make for a spectacular sockeye habitat. The rising
water table will also fill many of the dry tributary streams across the
forelands, creating new habitat for steelhead and the other
species of salmon. It isn't the end of the world as many in
Yakutat are predicting. It could also be the greatest opportunity
we've seen in a long time. Certainly this event creates some
amazing opportunity for eco-tourism, to see this amazing
geological event and the excitement of how it all unfolds.
Unfortunately, Italio River Adventures is still the only
eco-tourism guide service in Yakutat. Hopefully we can inspire
others to get a clue.

These two photos are from the 1986 closure, showing the narrow
strip of ice about a month before it washed out. Turner Glacier
can be seen in the distance.
June 20th, 2002 - OK,
not quite yet!
Hubbard is very close to sealing off the fiord,
but not quite there yet. The "push moraine" (the rock
and debris being pushed by the leading edge of the advancing glacier)
did seal off the fiord from Disenchantment Bay, but as the
melt-water brought the level of the fiord higher, it began
spilling over the moraine. In these photos (courtesy of the Forest
Service and Bill Lucy), you can see there is still a gap before
the ice hits Gilbert Point. It won't be long though...

If I can get up in the air, I
will get some better photos to keep you updated. In the 1986
closure (photos in our PHOTOS-GLACIERS page, you can see it was a
narrow protrusion that did the blocking. This time, it looks
to be the WHOLE glacier, making it more likely that the Situk will
actually be over run. Fortunately, the Italio is well out of
the path...
Our Galloping
Glacier - Hubbard Seals off Fiord... Again!
June 13th, 2002
For those of you who have seen Yakutat on
a sunny day, or spent any time reading this web site, you
know we have the largest glaciers on the continent. If you have
been fortunate enough to take a charter all the way to see the Hubbard
Glacier at the head of Yakutat Bay, you undoubtedly witnessed one
of the earth's greatest natural wonders. There is no way to
communicate what this unbelievable sight is like, so I won't
bother now.
In 1986, the Hubbard surged forward
blocking off Russell Fiord. Over the course of that summer,
the rising melt-water in Russell "Lake" threatened to overflow
through The Situk River and possibly overrun the town of Yakutat itself.
Millions of dollars were spent trying to save the threatened whales and
other marine mammals that were trapped behind the ice in this alien
fresh-water environment. Well, the ice dam broke through the
second week of September, causing the greatest burst of water
since Missoula, Montana had dinosaurs wandering the streets.
With Yakutat saved, the whales washed out into the ocean and all
was well... except the scientists were predicting that in a few
decades, the Hubbard would REALLY seal off the fiord and then we'd
REALLY be in a pickle.
TODAY, IT HAPPENED! Hubbard
once again sealed off Russell Fiord from Disenchantment Bay. The
fiord is already rising and everything is in a buzz. No one was
expecting it to do this quite so soon, but there is one amazing
stroke of luck... there was a scientific symposium scheduled for
this summer in Yakutat with every great geologic mind present. It
began Monday, so all the glaciologists from around the world are
ringside to see it happen.
Keep checking back and I will attempt to
update events as they happen. If I can get up in the air, I
will get photos as soon as possible. Meanwhile, I hope all
is well with you and the glaciers aren't running amok in your
neighborhoods.
Rains Cause
Overflow, Drainage Eroding Moraine
August 15, 2002 3:00am
After heavy rains in the Yakutat area, Russell
Lake overflowed the moraine that had been blocking the fjord and is now
draining to sea. The drainage is eroding the moraine, allowing
even more water to drain. At its peak, the water level in Russell
Lake reached a height of 61 feet above normal.
Bob Miller

World-class Flyfishing
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